2022-10-01 The Surfer’s Journal - “All Roads Lead West” by Peter Maguire

“All Roads Lead West”

by Peter Maguire

Plying his trade at the terminus of Route 66, Jim Ganzer exhibits the breadth and depth of Los Angeles surf culture.

Jim Ganzer, Topanga Beach, 1965. Photo c/o the Jim Ganzer Archive.

British architectural historian Reyner Banham loved Los Angeles because it was a city that broke all the rules and made “nonsense of history.” While he was enamored by the San Diego Freeway, the car culture, and the Southland’s beaches, he was most impressed by its “preferred form of the noble savage,” the surfer. As the Englishman explained in his seminal work, 1971’s Los Angeles: The Architecture of Four Ecologies, surfing was “a tough and restrictive sport. What has happened since is—as they say—history, but few episodes of seaside history since the Viking invasions can have been so colorful.”

In 1969, Banham had gone straight to the source, courtesy of an invitation to the home of surfer-artist Jim Ganzer, who lived in a Dionysian enclave of beachfront houses situated between Pacific Palisades and Malibu. “You had the hippies, the nude beach, and even the Manson family for a while,” says Ganzer. “You didn’t surf there unless you were invited. Banham was struck by my hedonistic view of life. He said, ‘This is just one big amusement park.’”

Ganzer was born in 1945 in Chicago, where his father worked for the Pullman railroad car company. When the trains began to die and airplanes began to fly, the elder Ganzer cashed his bonus check, bought a white Pontiac convertible, and drove his family west on Route 66 until they hit the Pacific Ocean. It was September 1957. Fourteen-year-old Jim arrived in Pacific Palisades with greased-back hair, a Levi’s jacket, and horseshoe heel taps on his loafers. He would soon swap his denim jacket for a Pendleton shirt and his loafers for Jack Purcell tennis shoes.

On one of his first days in the Palisades, Ganzer walked to the beach and met a group of kids his own age bodysurfing near Bel-Air Bay Club. “I knew nothing about surfing or the ocean,” he says. “There was a big south swell. I got thrown around and thought, ‘F**k, this is really something! This is scary!’ Immediately, the ocean was a big deal to me.”

State and the Pit
1955 to 1959

Ganzer’s new hometown was then ground zero for a baby-boomer-led cultural revolution. As Banham points out in his book, the “culture of the beach was a symbolic rejection of the values of the consumer society.” British writer Christopher Isherwood, who moved to Santa Monica Canyon in 1953, called it the “western Greenwich Village,” describing it as a place where “cranky, kindly people live and tolerate each other’s mild and often charming eccentricities.”

By the time Banham, Isherwood, or Ganzer arrived, Will Rogers State Beach, Pacific Palisades above it, and Santa Monica Canyon behind it had been home to a vibrant Southern California “waterfront culture” for almost a century. While Gene Selznick, the first “King of the Beach,” ruled the volleyball courts, generations of legendary watermen ruled the Santa Monica surf: George Freeth, Duke Kahanamoku, Tom Blake, Pete Peterson, Tom Zahn, Joe Quigg, Ricky Grigg, Peter Cole, Buzzy Trent, Mickey Munoz, and Mike Doyle all served as Santa Monica lifeguards.

Every morning, Ganzer and his friends would follow the smell of piss down Channel Road to the subterranean staircase and tunnel under Pacific Coast Highway that opens up to what’s known by its inhabitants as “State Beach.”

“It had something for everyone,” Ganzer says. “There was a Hollywood scene, a volleyball scene, a surfing scene, a gay scene, and nightlife in the canyon. Anything could happen down there. One day we were on the beach and spotted a ring of guys in dark suits. Next thing we know, a helicopter touches down in front of Peter Lawford's house, and JFK jumps out. In 1964, Darryl Stolper and I were at State and the Rolling Stones showed up looking for him. Darryl had been collecting blues records since he was a little kid, and the Stones wanted to buy records from him.”

By the fall of 1958, Ganzer was surfing, his entry eased by friend Denny Aaberg, the youngest of three brothers. The oldest, Kemp, was a lifeguard at Malibu who had gained a modicum of surf stardom when a photograph of him arching across a sparkling Rincon wall became Surfer magazine’s first logo, as well as being featured in Bruce Brown’s 1958 film Slippery When Wet.

“We all looked up to Kemp,” says Ganzer. “He and Lance Carson were the two best surfers in Pacific Palisades. The walls in his room were covered with surf pictures. There was a story behind every picture and every piece of memorabilia. Going into that room was like going into a museum, and he was the docent. It really made me want to become a surfer.”

He did, with a little help and a lesson from the middle Aaberg brother, Steve, who lived in the garage and had decorated its walls with vinyl 45 records, grass mats, and neon beer signs and arranged tuck-and-roll car seats for furniture. Ganzer told Steve that he’d tried surfing and wanted to buy a board. Steve replied, “I just happen to have one for sale,” before heading toward the back of the house. A few minutes later, he emerged with a battered balsa Velzy-Jacobs with a foam nose. “He told me, ‘Forty dollars,’” says Ganzer. “So I came back with $40 and he said, ‘Forty-five dollars!’ I got all disgruntled, but came back with another $5. Steve said, ‘I want $50!’ I said, ‘F**k you!’ Steve laughed and said, ‘Okay,’ and sold me the board. This was the era of the ratf**k. I learned young to watch my back and stand my ground.”

Ganzer, Denny, Robbie Dick, and Lanny Hoffman surfed State Beach as much as they could and progressed quickly. They soon had knots on their knees and crater-like open sores they called “volcanoes” on the tops of their feet, competing to see who had the most flies around their craters. They’d often surf in front of Doyle’s lifeguard tower just south of State.

“We knew Doyle from the Aabergs’ house,” says Ganzer. “He’d let us sit in the tower, and would critique our surfing and give us pointers. He eventually got all of us on the Hansen surf team.”

What Ganzer remembers most about this period were the parties at the Aabergs’ house, immortalized in Big Wednesday. His entrance to these gatherings, as much tribal councils as social events, began one summer night. As he approached the house, Fats Domino’s “Blueberry Hill” floated through the balmy air. Ganzer made his way around Dewey Weber’s 1933 Ford panel truck on the lawn and bumped into a guy taking a piss.

“He had one arm around a girl, a gallon jug of Red Mountain wine in his other hand, and the girl holding his pecker,” Ganzer says. “Inside the house, these older, stylish girls were doing ‘The Slow Wicked Stroll’ to Bill Doggett’s song, ‘HonkyTonk.’ At some point in the night, the hodads, the guys with their hair slicked back into ducktails, showed up to trash the party. The surfers closed ranks and kicked their asses. The kids ran the show at the Aabergs’ and the neighbors were aghast!” It wasn’t long until Ganzer made his way up to Malibu. Unlike Santa Monica’s athletic waterman culture, Malibu of the late 1950s was lawless and libertine, home to “dropouts” and “surf bums.”

“It was a frontier town back then,” Ganzer says. “There were no cops, except for Broderick Crawford driving around drunk in his fake police car.”

Ganzer’s first trip was made by hitchhiking up the coast. Upon arrival, he spotted a barbed-wired area filled with discarded furniture and a palm-frond hut. He paused, knowing it was “The Pit,” a place he had been warned about.

“I tried to sneak by unnoticed, but was intercepted by a sinister guy I’d once seen tip over an armoire at a party and laugh maniacally when all the china broke,” Ganzer says. “First, the guy made me stand at attention as he rifled through my possessions and took anything of value. Then he called over one of his stooges, a guy I knew from the Palisades, and barked, ‘Hit him!’ I could tell the second guy didn’t want to do it, but he punched me in the stomach.”

It all worked out in the end, though, as Ganzer was at Malibu the day his tormentor got his comeuppance: “He was eating a half a watermelon, and some guy he had obviously wronged walked up and punched him in the mouth right through the watermelon—dropped him.”

Ganzer and his friends began spending more and more of their time at Malibu and quickly became acquainted with locals like Ray “The Enforcer” Kunze, “Mysto” George, and Tim “The Glider” Lyon. They also got to know more-ominous characters, including Miki Dora, bank robber Eddie Lavo, Hawaiian transplant “Mokey,” and Malibu’s dignified resident hobo, “Old Joe,” who’d come to Malibu from Italy to work making tiles at Malibu Pottery and never left.

“There were some real characters at the Point who had a very inventive attitude towards life,” says Ganzer.

After he got a job rinsing fish guts and scales off Malibu pier, Ganzer and his friends often spent the night on the beach up by Third Point and Malibu Colony, the movie-star enclave where many of Malibu’s best surfers lived, including Johnny Fain.

“He was a total hustler,” Ganzer says. “At one point he was Malibu Colony’s tennis pro. He and Miki used to play tennis. They had a love/hate relationship. Most people just accepted the fact that Miki was going to stooge you, but Johnny didn’t stand for it. He had a sense of self-importance, and once Miki realized that, it was over.”

During each big south swell, a who’s who would make the pilgrimage up to First Point—everyone from actor Peter Lawford to Joey Cabell, LA Times owner Otis Chandler to Bob Cooper to Paul Strauch.

“These summer swells were a real gathering of the tribe,” Ganzer says. “Photographers LeRoy Grannis, Grant Rohloff, Bud Browne, and Don James would all have their cameras set up on the beach.”

The tribe soon got much bigger. In the spring of 1959, Ganzer and Denny saw Gidget on opening night at the Bay Theater in Pacific Palisades. “There was a big line out front,” he says. “Cars were cruising by honking their horns, guys doing BAs out the window—it was a big scene. We went to the ticket booth and a small, cute brunette a little older than us handed us our tickets. We got out of earshot and Denny turned to me and said, ‘That’s her, that’s the real Gidget.’ And when the movie came out in 1959, forget it, everyone wanted to become a surfer.”

Upside, Downside, Inside, Outside
1960 to 1962

By 1960, Ganzer, Denny, and Robbie were members of Santa Monica’s North Bay Surf Club. “There were some remarkable guys in that club,” Ganzer says. “Tony Kronman would go on to become the dean of Yale Law School. Another member, Stuart Bailey, lived near artist and designer Ray Eames. His parents were the millers who made the wood for those beautiful chairs. Marc Neikrug’s dad, George, played the cello for the LA Philharmonic Orchestra, and Marc would go on to play with the New York Philharmonic.”

However, not all of the members of the North Bay Surf Club would go on to teach in the Ivy League or play in an orchestra. Mike LaRae, one of the best surfers in the club, was an angelic-looking regularfoot who rode a double-stringer Lyman surfboard and could stand on the nose all day long. “He was just plain bad,” Ganzer says. “His parents were full-on Nazis and supposedly owned Hermann Göring’s yacht. LaRae would hand out racist pamphlets. I thought they were ridiculous, so I brought one home to show my dad. He was so f**king pissed off.”

Every fall, when State and the Jetty got really big, the club would drive up to Rincon. “Part of the pilgrimage to Rincon was stopping for breakfast on the way up,” says Ganzer. “Sometimes we would go to the Colonial House in Oxnard.” Known for its “Old South ambiance,” the Colonial House would come under fire from the NAACP in the late 60s for its marquee: a Black man in a chef’s outfit who stood on a platform next to Highway 1 ringing a bell and waving at passing cars.

“Steve was driving me, Denny, and LaRae up to Rincon. As we passed the Colonial House, LaRae stuck his head out the car’s window and screamed [a racial slur], Steve slammed on the brakes and said, ‘What the f**k did you just say?’ Steve backed up all the way and stopped the car and asked, ‘Mike, do you have something to say to this gentleman?’ LaRae was so humiliated that he tried crawling under the seat. It was wonderful to see that little bastard squirm. When you got sounded by one of the older guys, you shut up and took your bitter medicine.”

Each summer, the club made an annual trek south to San Diego, where they’d camp in a friend’s yard and surf Solana Beach, Seaside Reef, and Swami’s. The highlight of these trips, though, were the nighttime excursions across the border to Tijuana’s Zona Norte.

“Tijuana back then was kind of like the Wild West,” Ganzer savs. “Drunk Marines were staggering down the street, there were fights, and a Mexican barker stood outside the Blue Fox to invite you to ‘come inside and eat the furburger.’ One night we went to the Blue Fox and it was quiet and empty—totally dead. We heard someone playing the piano, looked up on the stage, and there was Marc Neikrug, the composer, banging out a Ray Charles song. Suddenly, people came in off the street; strippers and pimps came pouring out from these catacombs behind the club. Everyone started dancing. In a few minutes, the club was packed! It was magical, the way Neikrug breathed life into the place. The Mexican hookers mobbed him. He was lucky to get out of there with his clothes on.”

During this period, Ganzer’s status in the surfing world was elevated significantly when Carson got him on the Jacobs surf team alongside Donald Takayama, Dora, Doyle, Robert August, Strauch, Fain, Ford, Kemp, and many other greats. Soon, Jacobs hired Ganzer as a salesman to replace August, who’d left to film The Endless Summer.

“Having that diamond logo on the back of your jacket was a big deal back then,” says Ganzer. “Like Velzy, Hap was an excellent carpenter and craftsman who taught a whole generation how to shape. He always took time to show me how to do things.”

As Ganzer began to come into his own as a surfer, he drew Dora’s attention. However, it wasn’t due to Ganzer’s skill in the water. When Dora learned that Ganzer worked as a parking valet and had a line on the Hollywood parties, he began to ply him for intelligence. While the 1950s were the era of “the ratf**k”—elaborate, often mean-spirited, practical jokes—the 1960s were the era of “the caper” and “the scam.” “Surfers were looking for ways to work as little as possible to keep their days free for surfing,” Ganzer says. “Miki was the guy who influenced all the beach people on that caper mentality of ‘What can I get away with?’ I remember when To Catch a Thief came out and Miki started wearing turtlenecks. Dora definitely thought he was Cary Grant. Miki would show up at some of the parties where I was working—in a tux, wearing a Beatles wig. He would infiltrate, mingle long enough to find out where the coats and purses were, rifle through them for valuables, then make his exit.”

Goodbye, Camelot
1963 to 1976

After graduating from Palisades High School in 1963, Ganzer went to work for Surf Guide magazine. Bill Cleary, a former Marine from San Marino who was one of the first people to surf in France and the Canary Islands, had moved to Topanga and started the magazine with Larry Stevenson, a lifeguard, All-American swimmer, and founder of Makaha Skateboards.

Surfer wouldn’t run Makaha’s ads, so he started Surf Guide,” says Ganzer. “It had an amazing staff: Ron Stoner, LeRoy Grannis, John Van Hamersveld, Kemp, the Calhouns, Peter Cole, Corky Carroll, Bob Cooper, Peter Dixon, Buzzy Trent, and many others. I’d worked on the high school yearbook, so I helped out with layout and design. Then they had me manage their skateboard team. Cleary was a great mentor who helped me navigate life as it was getting much more complex.”

The first of these complexities occurred on November 22, 1963: “It was a regular Friday. I was packing boxes at the shop when the radio announced that President Kennedy, whose youthful energy I’d witnessed and admired at State Beach just a few years earlier, had been shot and killed in Dallas. As I made my way home, I noticed that a deafening silence had come over the entire town. For many of us, it wasn’t just Kennedy who had been killed. It was our innocence. It was the beginning of my disillusionment with America.”

The next interruption in Ganzer’s idyllic life came in 1964, when his draft notice arrived and he went to his pre-induction physical exam in Los Angeles: “Fain was there wearing a ballerina’s tutu, pretending to be gay. I took speed to get my heart rate up, and then intentionally failed the hearing test. It wasn’t enough. The draft boards in LA were on to all the tricks.” Although he was drafted, a friend of Ganzer’s father was a high-ranking officer and got him transferred to the Naval Reserve.

This close call made Ganzer think seriously about his future. There were other signs too. By 1965, the scene at Malibu was out of control. “It was really aggro—the Vals against the coastal guys,” Ganzer says. “It went from everybody being friends to something more territorial. There was a fight every hour, on the hour. Somebody was always getting whomped and walking away with a black eye or a bloody nose. I just thought, ‘F**k this!’”

After his experience at Surf Guide, Ganzer decided to go to art school. Like the previous generation of Southern California surfer-artists before him—Bob Irwin, Ken Price, and Billy Al Bengston—Ganzer had been making sophisticated aesthetic decisions about automobiles and surfboards since he was a teenager. He enrolled at Chouinard Art Institute in 1965. At that time, the school’s recent alumni, including Irwin, Larry Bell, and John Altoon, were an important part of the core of Irving Blum’s now-mythic Ferus Gallery. At Chouinard, Ganzer met classmates Chuck Arnoldi, Laddie Dill, Ron Cooper, and Tom Wudl, and once again found the camaraderie that he felt had gone missing from surfing.

Soon, Ganzer, Guy Dill, Allen Ruppersberg, and Cooper built studios at the abandoned Pacific Ocean Park (POP) amusement park and pier. Between making art, Ganzer preferred fishing for perch from the pier to surfing there.

“Miki used to surf there,” he says. “So did [Allen] Sarlo and all the Dogtown kids. But there was too much shit in the water.”

What Ganzer did like about POP were the free materials lying around. Banham visited Ganzer’s studio and, says Ganzer, “he thought that it was a metaphor for the way we lived our lives and made our art. Banham told me that I had ‘an amusement-park attitude towards art.’ I loved the process of making art. It wasn’t so much about the object as the experience. At one point I was painting balloons that would wither and die in a month. They were my version of the sand drawing.”

Ganzer’s ideas about surfing were redefined by Patrick McNulty’s 1966 Surfer article “Down Ocean Way,” about a now-famous trip Billy Fury, Ron Stoner, and Chouinard alum Rick Griffin took to San Bias, Mexico. Griffin’s drawings of the Indigenous Huichol people, peyote buttons, and surfing were “like an ad” to Ganzer: “Go to Mexico! Get good waves! Bring back a kilo of weed and you will be a hero in your town!”

In 1970, Ganzer, Dick, and Cooper drove a VW bus down the Pan-American Highway from Southern California to Panama. More than a surf trip, they visited museums in Mexico City, drank tequila, and entered an entirely new world beyond the beach. While they got great waves in Mexico and Panama, it was a remote peninsula near Quepos, Costa Rica, that captured their hearts. Dick and Ganzer returned the next year, bought 14 acres and built minimalist grass shacks, and discovered a variety of breaks that they surfed by themselves.

Ganzer drove 4,000 miles back to California to participate in a show called New Painting in Los Angeles at the Newport Art Museum. “I got on a skateboard and dragged a piece of wood from the recent Malibu fire down the 40-foot-long white wall like you would drag your hand in the face of a wave.” He also made a smaller charcoal drawing of a 90-degree arc one critic described as “directionally forceful” and “subtly topographical.”

After his POP studio was condemned and torn down, Ganzer rode his bike down Venice’s dirty streets looking for a new studio space. Many of the buildings had fallen into disrepair and were virtually abandoned. He found a large building on Westminster Boulevard and Main Street and knocked on the door.

“Venice in the 1970s was a very rough place,” says Ganzer. “A touch of evil was upon it. A strung-out lady opened the door. The sash of her dress was tied off around her arm; she’d just shot heroin.” She took Ganzer to a parapet on the top floor and pointed to a hole in the floor. “A 20-foot ladder went down to a 33,000-square-foot building. It was full of old Jaguars that junkies were living in.”

The junkies rented Ganzer the garage, and he transformed it into his studio. One morning, however, an old man who turned out to be the building’s true owner showed up and informed Ganzer that he’d been paying rent to squatters. Ganzer asked the man if he’d be interested in selling the garage. The man replied, “Sharpen your pencil.”

In order to evict the junkies, the artist had to homestead the property. When Cooper arrived to check out the building for the first time, Ganzer opened the sliding door with a baseball bat in his hands. Ganzer got Cooper and Peter Alexander to pool their money, and with Cooper’s buffed-out 4x4 as a down payment, they bought the building for $60,000.

After the artists got rid of the cars and degreased the floors, they transformed the space into three gigantic studios. Suddenly, Venice was at the forefront of American contemporary art. Irwin, Bell, and DeWain Valentine lived there for stretches, as did Bengston, pop artist Ed Ruscha, and others. Ganzer’s studio became a hive of creative activity. In addition to making art, he also rented his studio to artists like Lynda Bengalis and Bryan Hunt to work in. Ruscha shot his art film Miracle there, with Ganzer starring opposite Michelle Phillips of The Mamas and the Papas. The revenue Ganzer generated from the studio enabled him to travel to the property he owned in Costa Rica, stay for a month, surf, and make art.

“It wasn’t just surfing,” he says. “The jungle environment was totally foreign to me. It fascinated, inspired, and energized me for decades.”

In California, he surfed Topanga and First Point with his old friends Robbie Dick and George Trafton. Although the scene had changed, when Ganzer paddled out at Malibu for the first time in many years, he says, “I was filled with waves of well-being by the connection I felt. Malibu was home.”

Mating Call
1976 to Present

During his art period, Ganzer met Susie Boykin—a beautiful, strong-willed Texan. They married in 1976. A daughter, Sandy, and son, Beaux, soon followed. With a family to support, he and his friends sold their studio to Jack Nicholson, and Ganzer, while continuing to make art, began to make tables and work in Bell’s studio.

“I liked to do it all! I considered every part of everything I did art. But showing art, storing art, seducing patrons and gallery owners, listening to pretentious critics...” says Ganzer. “I’d much rather go surfing.”

In the late 1970s, after sliding into third base during a Malibu softball game, Ganzer noticed that the built-in belt in his baseball pants magically held them in place. Then an internal voice asked, “Why didn’t some surfer think of this?”

Ganzer had never liked the way laces and buttons felt when he was lying on his surfboard. “I’d always wanted trunks with a side Velcro closure,” he says. “I mentioned this to my art dealer’s husband, who was in the garment industry. He said, ‘Do a drawing.’ He liked the drawing and then said, ‘Get someone to make them.’” Ganzer found a seamstress in Boyle Heights, who began sewing men’s and women’s shorts out of different sample fabrics he brought her.

The first Jimmy’z trunks were a cross, as Ganzer says, “between the shorts the British military wore in India and the really long shorts that Duke and the old Hawaiian beach boys wore to prevent rashes.” Ganzer distributed the first pairs to prominent friends in the Malibu surfing hierarchy, including J. Riddle, Trafton, Jeff Higginbotham, Skip Engblom, and Dick. Next, the Paskowitz family helped to expand the brand down to the South Bay. “It all happened very organically,” remembers Ganzer. “In the beginning, I sold them out of my station wagon in the parking lots at Topanga and Malibu. They were functional, each batch was different, and people liked them.”

Jimmy’z took a much more serious and lucrative turn in 1983, when Ganzer showed them to Sepp Donahower, whose company, Pacific Productions, was at one time one of the biggest concert promoters in America. “Sepp touched his nose and said, ‘I smell a hit.’ He really understood marketing,” Ganzer says.

One of their first successful ads was a photo of surfer Randy Carranza taken at Los Flores beach. “Higgy was working for photographer Phillip Dixon, who shot the Guess jeans ad campaign,” says Ganzer. “Dixon had a beautiful young model pull the Velcro tab of Randy’s pants as if she was taking them off.”

These ads first appeared on the inside cover of the Los Angeles Free Press. Soon, ads for Jimmy’z featured wild men surfing and skating—Christian Hosoi, Steve Olson, David Hackett, Vince Klyn, and others. “Jimmy’z was much more of a scene than a clothing company,” Ganzer says. “We were having fun and doing what came naturally to us.”

The brand really took off after NBC News filmed Ganzer at Surfrider Beach holding a pair of Jimmy’z. He turned to the camera, ripped open the Velcro, and said, “The mating call of the 80s.” By the end of their first weekend trade show, Ganzer and Donahower had sold $300,000 worth of merchandise. Over the next five years, Jimmy’z rose like a meteor, and their headquarters expanded from a garage to a 55,000-square-foot building in Los Angeles. Ry Cooder and Stevie Ray Vaughan modeled their clothes in ads that appeared in Rolling Stone. At a trade show in New York City, Ganzer hired a dancer from the Wayans Brothers television show In Living Color named Jennifer Lopez to dance to the music of a reggae musician he met playing on the street in Times Square. “I have always enjoyed doing unpredictable, spontaneous things,” Ganzer says. “We outraged some people and inspired others.”

After a while, supply, demand, and the day-to-day pushing and shoving of the garment industry stopped being fun, and Ganzer and Donahower sold Jimmy’z to Op. “Could I have made more money and maximized my profits? Sure!” says Ganzer. “Could I have had more fun? I doubt it.”

It was around this time, the late 90s, that Ganzer got a call from his old friend John Milius. “John was from Beverly Hills and used to come to Malibu. He knew a lot about history and was always pontificating,” says Ganzer. “Milius calls and says, ‘Your name is on everyone’s lips! You’re the Big Lebowski!’ There’s a couple guys that want to meet you.’ So I picked up the Coen brothers and we talked. I had an errand to run, so I left them in the parking lot of the bowling alley on Venice Boulevard. Then they met my partner, Sepp, who drank White Russians. So Lebowski wasn’t just me. The Coens used parts of our characters and made a composite.”

When asked about his life today, the 77-year-old Ganzer’s eyes twinkle as he shrugs and says with the smile of a Cheshire cat: “I never set out to become a business tycoon or the Big Lebowski. I was just living my life the only way I knew how to. Wealth and fame were much less important to me than fun and creative satisfaction. Surfing shaped the way I approached life. I remember Kemp used to tell us to ‘keep it sano.’ This meant keep it sanitary, keep your shit together, stay within the lines. That was what I meant by ‘the Dude abides.’ I might have stepped over the lines of society’s rules, but I always abided by my own natural law, my own sense of right and wrong.”

2022-11-01 Malibu Times Magazine - "Junior Malibu" by Pablo Capra

“Junior Malibu”
 
by Pablo Capra
 
Part of a series on overlooked Malibu history
 
The Carrere family on the balcony of the Yellow House, circa 1941. Photo c/o Carrere family.

The “Yellow House” (later, the “Yellow Submarine”) is best remembered from Anthony Friedkin’s photo on the cover of Topanga Beach Experience by Paul Lovas (2011). Located near the current lifeguard tower, it was burned down in 1979 by surfers who wanted to spare this symbol of their neighborhood from being bulldozed when the beach became public.
 
The earliest known owners of the Yellow House, in the late 1930s, were Frank and Ruth Lacy, with their children Mary Alice, Katherine, and Billy Scott—of whom little else could be learned.
 
In 1940, the Lacys sold the Yellow House to Eduardo “Edward” Carrere (1906-1984), his wife Helen (1905-1979), and son Leon Robert “Bobby” Carrere (b.1935). Edward and Helen met at the Bullocks Wilshire department store, where she worked with his sister in the hat department. He’d emigrated from Mexico City with his family to escape the Mexican Revolution in 1919. She was born to Norwegian immigrants in Brooklyn, and relocated to Los Angeles after visiting her older brother there in 1926.
 
Initially, the Carreres moved to the beach from Sherman Oaks as summer renters in 1939, but decided to stay. Bobby shared pleasant memories from childhood, like his mother sending him up the creek to pick watercress for their salads. They also gathered the grunion that spawned on the beach at night. When his bucket was full, he’d jump in the ocean. “It felt like I was in a can of sardines,” he says.
 
On Wednesdays, Helen drove Edward, a draftsman, to work at Warner Bros. studio in Burbank so she could use the car to run city errands. When Bobby was on summer break from Roosevelt Elementary School in Santa Monica, it was the one day of the week that he had to wear shoes.

Leon “Bobby” Carrere, circa 1941. Photo c/o Carrere family.
 
Bobby’s best friend was neighbor John “Jack” Sykes (1935-2017). Instead of opening a lemonade stand, they found a novel way to earn a nickel by digging a channel into the lagoon and rowing their neighbors across. The boys made the water flow parallel to the beach houses, cutting off as many as they could from the ocean. One could wade across, but how much more adventurous to ride in the boys’ borrowed rowboat. And the neighbors didn’t mind the channel because it brought firewood to everyone’s doorstep.
 
A great place to explore was Parker Mesa to the east. The boys reached it by a dirt road a quarter mile up Topanga Canyon. Claude I. Parker (1871-1952), a tax attorney with a large Hollywood clientele, had purchased the property in 1921 from Perfecto Marquez (1887-1942), a descendant of the area’s first ranching family. Claude and his brother Ivon belonged to the Elks club that threw a giant rodeo at Topanga Beach in 1923. They also owned cabins there that burned in 1926.
 
Near today’s Getty Villa, Claude and his second wife Blanche (1885-1936) built a mansion that they called La Casa Contenta en La Cañada Sentimienta (“The happy house in the sentimental glen”), rhyming on the canyon’s Spanish name. It had a movie theater, an adobe barbecue that could feed 500, a pool with a waterwheel, beds of prize-winning roses, and stables for breeding horses. On the Mesa, they cut riding trails, and planted avocado and citrus trees. Blanche, in poor health, died early of pneumonia. Claude sold the mansion to J. Paul Getty (1892-1976) in 1945, while Parker Mesa was sold separately to the Sunset Mesa housing development, which opened in 1962.
 
Further east, the boys discovered an abandoned palace, the Villa Leon, whose name sounds like it was built for Bobby. In fact, Jewish-Austrian businessman Leon Kauffman (1873-1935) built it for his wife Clemence (1886-1932) to fulfill her dream of having a castle by the sea. Kauffman made his fortune processing wool, and filled their home with every luxury, including statues, topiary gardens, frescoed ceilings, waterways with tiny boats, rare birds in cages, the first-ever central vacuum cleaner, a pipe organ, tables with golden angels for legs, an elevator, and a funicular railway to the beach. The castle was completed in 1928, but only briefly enjoyed, since Clemence and Leon both died a few years later. Caretakers oversaw Villa Leon until it was finally sold at auction in 1952. It remains a coastal landmark.
 
When Bobby and Jack explored it, they chanced upon an open window and decided to climb in. “I went first,” Bobby says. “I saw furniture all covered with sheets… real Halloween time! Then I turned around and realized that I was not going to be joined, so I quickly headed back out the window.”
 
In the summer of 1941, the Carrere family rented out the front of the Yellow House, and moved into two apartments above the garage. Their tenants were married actors Vincent Price (1911-1993) and Edith Barrett (1907-1977). Price had just made The Invisible Man Returns (1940), embarking on a career in horror that would include a monologue in Michael Jackson’s 1983 song “Thriller.” Barrett, a Broadway actress, would make her film debut that September in the noir Ladies in Retirement (1941), which also starred the couple who lived one house west, Ida Lupino (1918-1995) and Louis Hayward (1909-1985). Film columnist Hedda Hopper noted that Topanga Beach was becoming a junior Malibu Colony.
 
At the mouth of Topanga Canyon there’s a colony of actors and they call the place "Junior Malibu." The Vincent Prices and Louis Haywards have cottages with balconies facing the sea. And during their after-dinner coffee they chat back and forth to each other. They got in the habit of calling out, whenever a woman walked by on the beach, "There goes Garbo!" Last week one night just at dusk, when a woman strolled past, they repeated this—then looked suddenly at the woman, and b’golly, it WAS Garbo! They ran indoors as guilty as a couple of young kids who had tied tin cans to puppies’ tails.
 
—”Hedda Hopper’s Hollywood,” Los Angeles Times 1941-08-19
 
Vincent Price circa 1940, and Ida Lupino circa 1942. Publicity stills c/o MGM, Universal Pictures.

Ida Lupino was Bobby’s favorite neighbor, and would invite him and Jack in for cookies. She came from an English family that had acting roots going back to Renaissance Italy. By seven, she was writing and performing plays in her backyard. By 10, she’d memorized the lines of every female Shakespeare lead. At 14, she starred in the film Her First Affaire (1932).
 
An unfortunate consequence of coming to Hollywood was that she contracted polio in a swimming pool during a 1934 epidemic. Although she recovered, she decided that she needed a broader skill set. “I realized that my life and my courage and my hopes did not lie in my body,” she told Hollywood magazine in 1942. So, when not in front of the camera at Warner Bros., she studied how films were produced, and eventually became the only woman to write and direct in 1950s Hollywood.
 
It may have been her idea to create the “Malibu Summer Theater,” which put on a backyard play (her hallmark!) with the children of Topanga Beach in 1941. Their performance of The Return of Noreen, about fairies and elves, was hosted by Don “Chick” and Sarah Dawson, who lived one house east (where bikers Terry and The Pirates lived in the 1970s). Helen created the costumes by dyeing the children’s underwear green. Admission was a dime, and went towards ice cream and cake for the actors: Bobby, Jack, his sister Beverly, sisters Eve and Joneen Tettemer, Prudy Jackson, and Marion Heath.

In the audience were Ida Lupino, Louis Hayward, Vincent Price, Edith Barrett, Ziegfeld Follies girls Ann Pennington (1893-1971) and Fanny Brice (1891-1951), Broadway star Sophie Tucker (1887-1966), and actors John Conte (1915-2006), Frances Robinson (1916-1971), and Richard Haydn (1905-1985). The women wore pants and the men wore swim trunks to the casual event, yet their celebrity status ensured another write-up, in which a reviewer highlighted the fun of it all.
 
Asked if he would like an Academy award for his performance as Elf No. 1, Bobby replied: “Sure, how can I get it!”…

Frequently the leads acknowledged the presence of friends "out front" by grins and hand waving. One actress became so happy at seeing her mother in the back row, that she stepped across the footlights and sat with her.
 
—“A Play Premiere,” The Daily News, 1941-08-05
 
The play would be remembered as a special moment in time, shortly before the US entered World War II, and everyone’s lives changed.
 
After the war, the Carrere family moved to Westwood, where Edward fulfilled his dream of building a house. In 1947, Warner Bros. promoted him to art director. He went on to win an Oscar for the musical Camelot (1967), and to design sets for over 50 other films, including The Fountainhead (1949), The Old Man and the Sea (1958), and The Wild Bunch (1969). His younger brother, Fernando “Ferdie,” also became an art director, receiving an Oscar nomination for The Children’s Hour (1961), and working on other major films like On the Beach (1959) and The Pink Panther (1963).
 
Leon, who dropped his childhood name Bobby, grew up to work at Warner Bros. like his dad, as a film and TV editor, with credits on the hit shows Charlie’s Angels (1976-1981) and The X-Files (1993-2002). Today he’s retired and lives in Carpinteria.
 
***
Pablo Capra is the Archivist for the Topanga Historical Society and author of Topanga Beach: A History 1820s-1920s (2020).

2022-09-01 The Malibu Times - "World War II Passes Through" by Pablo Capra

“World War II Passes Through”
 
by Pablo Capra
 
Part of a series on overlooked Malibu history

An illuminated purse was useful in wartime. Photo c/o Topanga Journal, 1943-03-19.
 
Detail of the silver platter that washed up on the beach. Photo c/o LA Times, 1939-09-24.

On August 26, 1939, one week before Adolf Hitler started World War II, he ordered all merchant ships to return home. Germany’s largest ship, the SS Bremen, was more than halfway to New York, so the captain decided to continue on to unload its 1,770 passengers. The ship left New York on August 30th with its crew singing Nazi anthems.
 
On September 1st, Hitler invaded Poland. The Bremen, and all other ships caught at sea, began traveling in wartime secrecy. It was speculated that Allied blockades around Germany would now force the Bremen to find harbor in another country, perhaps Norway, Italy, or Mexico. If captured, the Bremen would be a major prize. Similarly, the British feared capture of their RMS Queen Mary, an even larger ship, until it reached New York on September 4th.
 
On September 7th, German media announced that the Bremen was safe. The Allies kept searching, distrusting propaganda. Unexpectedly, the LA Times published a photo of a silver platter, stamped with the ship’s insignia, that had washed up on Topanga Beach on September 23rd. Kenneth Foote, of Westwood, said he found it while digging for crabs. The mystery of how the platter got to Malibu was forgotten a week later when the Bremen was confirmed to be in Murmansk, Russia.
 
Another WWII mystery was the Battle of Los Angeles. On the night of February 24, 1942, radar saw something enter Los Angeles airspace from the West, fly over Long Beach, then circle back. A huge response by antiaircraft guns couldn’t halt its progress. Instead, three people died in car accidents, two people died from heart attacks, and shells rained back down onto the city. The Evening Outlook reported the incident as, “Japs Bomb Off Topanga.” An official investigation concluded that the panic was caused by a weather balloon (unofficially, it was a UFO), with a contributing factor being the submarine attack on Santa Barbara the night before.
 
Fear surrounding these skirmishes helped justify the internment of Japanese Americans a week later and gave racism free rein. In 1942, on the anniversary of the Attack on Pearl Harbor, the Topanga Journal’s editor Hugh Harlan wrote:
 
"It is only a matter of time until the Japs will attempt to invade California. That attempt might be made at Topanga Beach.
 
"Why do you think thousands of Japanese army and navy reservists lived and worked in California? Because they liked our climate? Because they loved us?.… The Japs have been planning for years to take our Country by force.… They may come before the ink on this warning is dry…. Are you prepared mentally and physically to kill or be killed?"
 
The Army practiced aerial attacks on the barge Prentiss, purchased from the Malibu Sport Fishing Company, until a tracer bullet set it on fire and it crashed into the rocks. On May 15, 1942, the Malibu Bugle eulogized the Prentiss as the “perfect lady,” who “uttered no groan” while serving her country, and from whose body emerged future soldiers.
 
"For weeks she lay just off Malibu Beach, her active sailing days ended, and took everything the flying circuses of P-38’s could pour into her.… Her stout ribs even protected the three young adventurers who clambored aboard her, unconscious of the menace from the skies, saved them from the shower of fifty calibers, possibly to become pilots themselves…."

The Carrere family: Fernando (Edward’s brother), Helen, Leon “Bobby,” and Edward, c. 1941. Photo c/o the Carrere family.

Bobby grew attached to Richard Haydn’s dog Tucker, c. 1944. Photo c/o the Carrere family.
 
Leon “Bobby” Carrere (b.1935) saw an old gambling ship being used as target practice from his Topanga Beach house, and described other sights of Malibu at war.
 
“The hills along the coast were full of artillery. It was a common sight to see 100 Army vehicles at a time driving down the highway. Sometimes the Army closed the beach to play war games. The Coast Guard had a camp at Sunset Blvd. and patrolled the beach on foot every evening, passing by our house with bayonets and German Shepherds. On either side of the lagoon, machine gun nests were placed on dirt mounds.”
 
One nest was in front of his best friend’s house, John “Jack” Sykes (1935-2017), who shared this story.
 
“They dug a big hole in the sand, and had soldiers in there. I would bring them cookies from our house, and my dad got so mad at me. I was taking all our stuff out for these guys to eat.”
 
Bobby’s father, Edward Carrere (1906-1984), was a Warner Bros. draftsman, and would become the Oscar-winning art director of Camelot (1967). His mother, Helen, served with the American Women’s Voluntary Services as an air-raid lookout from the roof of Ted’s Rancho Restaurant, across the street from today’s Getty Villa. She made sure to avoid the fines of the Blackout Warden by only burning candles at night behind their thick curtains.
 
Drivers had to illuminate the road with their parking lights, and could only buy gas with coupons from the Malibu Rationing Board. On December 20, 1943, the Board “grounded” the cars of three people who were spotted hunting in Utah. Otto Opperman (a manufacturer of airplane parts from Topanga), his wife Florence, and Christy Miller (a lifeguard from Topanga Beach) testified that they’d saved enough coupons for the trip. However, the Board ruled that saving gas for pleasure missed the point.
 
The Topanga Civilian Defense Committee encouraged hitchhiking and, on February 12, 1943, announced plans to install a bench in Santa Monica. “Homeward-bound Topanga motorists are asked to drive by the bench… and pick up their fellow hill billies.”
 
On September 11, 1942, a warning appeared in the LA Times that large-caliber guns would be test fired from the Pacific Palisades.
 
"All shipping stand clear. The danger area is outlined as the area between the Santa Monica Pier and Topanga Beach for a distance of 12 miles to sea."
 
And on October 27, 1943, a mock invasion of the coast between Topanga and Palos Verdes took place before dawn. “Enemy” soldiers succeeded in reaching two out of three industrial plants, but suffered “heavy losses.”
 
New recruits, many from the Midwest, did basic training at the West LA Soldiers Home. “Our neighborhood would invite them to the beach for summer barbecues,” Bobby said. Sometimes, he’d see Gen. Jimmy Doolittle, who was friends with neighbors Don “Chick” Dawson and his wife Sarah. Doolittle gifted the Dawsons a large wooden propeller that hung proudly over their fireplace. He also took a shoulder patch off his uniform and gave it to Bobby.
 
Doolittle famously led the first retaliatory attack on Japan, known as the Doolittle Raid, on April 18, 1942. Although the attack did minor damage, and many civilians were among the 50 people killed and 400 injured, it was noted for its daring, long-range strategy. All 16 B-25 bombers but one crash-landed in China, and most of the crewmen escaped with the help of Chinese guerrillas. The Japanese subsequently retaliated against the Chinese, killing an estimated 250,000 people. Doolittle thought he would be court-martialed, but instead Americans were so glad to have finally struck back that he was given the Medal of Honor.
 
Married actors Louis Hayward (1909-1985) and Ida Lupino (1918-1995) lived next door to Bobby. Hayward served in the Pacific as the commander of a documentary film unit, and afterwards won an Oscar for making With the Marines at Tarawa (1944). The island was the site of a three-day battle in which over 6,000 people died. Hayward was so altered by the experience that his wife no longer knew him. They divorced in 1945.
 
Another neighbor, English actor Richard Haydn (1905-1985), returned to his home country for part of the war. He asked Bobby’s family to take care of his dog Tucker (named after Broadway star Sophie Tucker), which thrilled Bobby. When Haydn came back, Tucker had puppies, and Bobby got to keep one that he named Wrinkles.

The Franklin family: Sam, Larry (carrying Beth), Louis, and Evelyn, c. 1941. Photo c/o the Franklin family.

The Franklins’ beach house, formerly the Topanga Yacht Clubhouse, c. 1950. Photo c/o the Franklin family.
 
Louis (1904-1979) and Evelyn Franklin (1906-1982) bought the former Topanga Yacht Clubhouse in 1941 for weekend getaways with their children: Larry (b.1930), Sam (b.1936), and Beth (b.1940). The two-story building was surmounted by a mast that flew nautical flags. Owner Helene Raymond (1878-1951), the Club’s first officer, explained that the house had been one of the few to survive the swell of 1926. She planned to move to Pearl Harbor, where her son was in the Navy.
 
“My dad talked to her a couple of days after December 7, 1941, and offered to cancel the sale, but she decided to go through with it, despite being unable to travel to Hawaii,” Sam said.
 
Louis worked in a wrecking yard, and the family lived in the Pico-Robertson neighborhood. They drove to the beach house along boulevards lined with “barrage balloons,” blimp shapes tethered to cables that could obstruct air attacks. One night, they were awakened by a tank and a searchlight trained on an invader at the Topanga Point.
 
“The threat turned out to be a fishing boat. The fisherman had illegally put a gill net down too close to the beach because the fishing was better by the rocks. He’d come back at midnight to secretly get it, and his keel got stuck,” Sam said.
 
As the War in Europe reached its last month in April 1945, the abandoned café at the Topanga intersection, Rust’s Barbecue, became a depot for clothing donations for the liberated peoples of Europe. Proprietor Ina Rust (1901-1988) had found new opportunity working at Garrett AiResearch and Douglas Aircraft, and her daughter Thais (1925-2021) followed her into the aerospace field.
 
“A lot of Douglas Aircraft workers lived in the Topanga Beach Auto Court,” Larry said.
 
People remained vigilant even after the Japanese surrendered on August 15, 1945. Bertha Spurgin, of Old Malibu Rd., found a messenger pigeon and brought it to the Malibu Sheriff’s office on August 24th. It was turned over to the Army, so we’ll never know what the message said, but, by then, the bird might as well have been a symbol of peace carrying an olive branch.
 
***
Pablo Capra is the Archivist for the Topanga Historical Society and author of Topanga Beach: A History 1820s-1920s (2020).

1930 Parks, Playgrounds and Beaches for the Los Angeles Region - "Recommendations for Public Beaches"

Excerpt from "Recommendations for Public Beaches"

A report submitted to the Citizens' Committee on Parks, Playgrounds, and Beaches by Olmsted Brothers and Bartholomew and Associates, Consultants


Mouth of Topanga Canyon, showing areas that should be publicly owned to care for the vast crowds that gather there, and showing an endless chain of autos extending down the beach, cutting off all view of the ocean from the passing travelers. Photo by Stagg Photo Service.

21. Tuna Canyon Beach

At the point opposite the Hearst Private Road, there is a small area outside the highway with a tent, and eastward from there to Topanga Canyon for a mile and a half there are 65 small buildings on the narrow strip between the highway and the ocean. Some of these buildings on high timbers may be standing on public tidelands. All should be removed and all land should be publicly acquired.

22. Topanga Canyon Park Uplands

At the mouth of Topanga Canyon the small flat area now occupied by a number of small cottages is all needed for a park and picnic area and to hold a large number of automobiles that come to the shore. Here the value to the public would be very much greater as a public park than can be realized on the same area under private ownership.

23. Topanga Beach

From Topanga Canyon to the Los Angeles City line at the Parker Ranch Road for a distance of one mile there are 30 small buildings on the seaward side of the highway, with high cliffs on the other. The entire strip between the highway and the sea should be publicly owned, as it will have a far greater value for large numbers of people under public ownership.

[...] The bottom of the canyon also should be acquired to be kept for general recreation, relatively free from buildings throughout most of the distance, including all of the lowland at and near the mouth of the canyon, where a number of small cottages now occupy land that would otherwise have great value for the gathering of very large numbers of pleasure seekers around camp fires and stoves and in pleasant groves, with a few general buildings capable of caring for very large numbers of people.

1994-03-02 Santa Monica Outlook - "In the Path of Destruction" by Nick Madigan

“In the Path of Destruction”
 
by Nick Madigan
Photos by Bryan McLellan / Staff Photographer
 
In nearly 7 decades, the Topanga Ranch Motel has been threatened by floods and fires. But it still stands, often shelters those displaced by disasters, and now it is for sale.

Guests check in at the Topanga Ranch Motel, and sometimes don’t check out for years.

Screenwriter Rob Dunn sits in his motel room, which he treats as his temporary home and office while he’s separated from his wife. Dunn is working on a project for Touchstone Pictures.

Come rain, tremors or fire, some places are just plain lucky. On a windy patch of land between Pacific Coast Highway and a flood-prone creek, the Topanga Ranch Motel has survived the onslaught of the elements for almost 70 years. Time and again, water from the raging stream has lapped at the doorsteps of its white-and-red bungalows. Fire has sucked the life from trees inches away. When the earth moves, the old wood of the buildings creaks and sways, but stays put.
 
Four years ago, the motel and the rest of the 1,600-acre canyon property on which it sits — all of it owned by the Los Angeles Athletic Club — almost were sold for parkland. Asking price: $25 million. It survived even that.
 
Given its durability and location, the 34-unit motel often doubles as a temporary home for refugees of disaster. The four calamities that recently struck Los Angeles and Malibu — floods a year ago, fires in November, the Northridge earthquake in January and the mudslides of Feb. 7 — disgorged some of the suddenly homeless into the motel, filling it for nights on end even as the bungalows themselves were threatened.
 
When the rain returned early Thursday, the motel’s small staff looked ready to accept more evacuees. As it happened, the showers were lighter than anticipated and there was no rush for the check-in desk.
 
Despite its resilience, however, the quaint hostelry at the bottom of Topanga Canyon is one of a dying breed, a relic.
 
“The old motor motels — very few of ’em left,” said Charlie Sexton, 62-year-old night manager and handyman, as he sat in the small front office overlooking the highway. “In the old days you could drive anywhere, pull in, get out of your car and go into your room. On Route 66, they used to be the thing. But they’re all gone now. The big chains like Red Roof Inns and Best Western, they’ve taken over and rebuilt a lot of ’em. Every place is like an apartment building now.”
 
The motel, one of the few anywhere to retain its architectural form since it was built, has become crowded by its neighbors: There is the Topanga Ranch Liquor & Market, the Reel Inn restaurant, the Malibu Feed Bin, Japanese and Mexican restaurants and various other businesses and private homes.

In the ’20s, when the motel was built, some construction workers had cottages in the area. Photo courtesy of the Topanga Historical Society (Randy Young Collection).

Newspaper baron William Randolph Hearst once owned the oceanfront property that houses all of them. Shortly after World War I, workers building the first coastal highway — then named after President Theodore Roosevelt — lived in long wooden shacks along the beach. There were also cottages and huts, some used as changing rooms in the days when swimming in the ocean compelled more discretion than it does now.
 
Some of the workers’ shacks and beachgoers’ cottages later were moved to form the Topanga Ranch Motel. Guests years ago could walk a few yards to the rodeo grounds, which attracted hordes rich and poor from the growing area around Los Angeles; the bucking horses and Brahma bulls are long gone. In recent years, prospective buyers have looked at the roadside portion of the huge canyon property as a good place for a shopping mall.
 
“Always for Sale”
 
“It’s always for sale,” said Ray Craig, who has run the motel for 10 years as a lessee of the Los Angeles Athletic Club. “But you can’t develop it. You’ve got the creek, so there would have to be some sort of flood control, and the Coastal Commission would probably object because you’d be bringing in extra traffic. And everyone here is on septic tanks. So nothing’s been done. If we had sewers here, we’d be looking like Miami Beach.”
 
Since 1972, when the Athletic Club first explored the idea of selling the property, its many tenants there have been on month-to-month leases so that it will be easier to dispose of the land, Craig said. Club officials did not return a telephone call from this newspaper.
 
Joseph T. Edmiston, executive director of the Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy, said Thursday that the state agency remained interested in the land — which runs north from the highway for about 2 1/2 miles until it abuts Topanga State Park — and would buy it “if we could get it for the right price.”
 
The $25 million tag placed on the property was too much in 1990, when the two sides last spoke. Edmiston said he still sought to preserve the “spectacular” hills on either side of Topanga Canyon Boulevard. He acknowledged that the fate of the commercial and residential areas by the highway is “a sensitive issue,” but said he did not know what would happen to them should the conservancy succeed in buying the property.
 
In the predawn hours of Nov. 3, 1993, flames of the Old Topanga fire forced evacuation of residents and guests, though ultimately there was no damage. A guest, Robert Overby, took this photograph. Several other disasters have threatened the site over the years.

Many Acres Scorched

While the businesses and homes survived the November fires, hundreds of acres in the canyon were scorched.
 
“I thought this place would spontaneously combust,” Tim McNamara, an architect who has made his home in the motel for the past year, said of the flames that licked the property but failed to ignite it.
 
McNamara and other guests were evacuated to the beach on the other side of the highway, from where they watched the flames march down the seaward edge of Topanga Canyon. From the vantage point of the beach, the motel looked doomed.
 
“It looked like we lost the last row of buildings,” said Craig, the motel’s owner. “Then I got over here and found them still standing. I just couldn’t believe it.”
 
Firefighters from Fountain Valley had saved the place. When the battle was over, the guests — a screenwriter in search of quiet, a record producer cutting costs, a J. Paul Getty Museum security guard — returned to their cottages and rooms, brushing ash from the windowsills and doorjambs. For some of the guests — such as Aneta Siegal, who has lived at the motel for 40 years — losing the motel to fire would have meant losing everything.
 
Rare Outing
 
The night of the fire, Siegal, an elderly woman who keeps to herself in her ramshackle cottage, packed a bag and left for the first time in a decade, one of her neighbors said.
 
“I guess it’s had better days,” Sexton, the night manager, said of the motel. By better he meant more fun. In the ’60s, a bar called The Raft — on the spot now occupied by the Reel Inn restaurant next door — attracted mischievous leather-jacketed biker-actors such as Lee Marvin, Keenan Wynn and Neville Brand.
 
“They were cruder than crude,” Sexton recalled. “They were very loud and they drank a lot. Every so often they’d get thrown out. They’d rent a room here and stay the night if they couldn’t get home by themselves.”
 
More ominously, a short, skinny hippie named Charles Manson used to gas up his brown school bus at the Phillips 66 gas station Sexton used to own. Manson later gained infamy by leading a band of drug- dazed companions into actress Sharon Tate’s home and slaughtering her and four other people.
 
“We knew he was a strange character, but we were surprised about the murders,” Sexton said. “He behaved when he was around us.”

One motel resident, a record producer who declined to be identified or photographed, has a truck that looks as if it may be as big as his cottage.

Vince Ewasko, 38, is among the residents at Topanga Ranch Motel. He said the wind reminds him of his native home in the East.
 
To Vince Ewasko, a 38-year-old messenger who lives at the motel full-time, the folklore of the place and its propensity toward disaster are irrelevant.
 
“The thing that keeps me here is the wind,” Ewasko, who moved from New Jersey to California in 1978, said as a breeze whistled through the canyon. Besides, he said, the old motel seems immune to danger.

“Everything happens around us — it just doesn’t seem to touch us,” he said. “It’s amazing.”

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